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Notice that I have included on this page a street-level map of Durant and these 2 photos with seemingly-useless comments about directions of car travel. All that is so you folks–especially folks around nearby Jackson–can easily find the Studio 51. You'll not find authentic juke joint atmosphere any better than inside the Studio 51. While staying in Holmes County, I spent several days hunting for a still-standing juke joint that Elmore James played in. This is it. Elmore James played his awesome slide guitar here in 1952 according to the mayor's cousin who was there. In those days, it was known as "Ed Powell's in the alley." This juke joint and the alleys outside would have been wall-to-wall people that night. Just the year before, Elmore's "Dust My Broom" reached the Top Ten R & B chart. Overnight, he was famous.
I do know for a fact that it shocked the black folks inside this juke joint when I, a white man, stepped through that propped-open front door one hot afternoon. But I'm used to that reaction.
I walked through the front door and up to the 2 people who were sitting then exactly as you see them sitting at the table in the photo taken later. I introduced myself to the man who looked age 30 something and also looked slightly familiar. He said, "They call me Rocket. Hey, I've seen you ridin' ‘round town in that old car. Saw you takin' pictures of that joint over on Depot Street. Talked to you, remember?" "Yeah," I said, remembering. "Asked you if there were any musicians around here. Care if I sit down?" "Nah," he said. "Sit down." So I sat, pulling out the green chair you see at his left. I reached my hand across the table to the woman and introduced myself to her. She looked age 30+ something and looked at me as if I emanated some sort of foul odor. She ignored my hand so I removed it from over the table. "What you want?" she asked, meaning my business, not in reference to my possible thirst. I explained why I was there. In short, the mayor had sent me there because Elmore James had played there. "Who's Elmore James?" I explained Elmore James. Then I asked, "You the owner?" "Barmaid." "You got a Diet Coke®?" "Ain't got nothin' but beer." I started asking questions about the place, questions which deepened her mistrust. She seemed to know only the name of the place and the name of its owner. I asked her, "Can you call the owner?" "Ain't got no telephone here." She abruptly got up and soon disappeared behind the bar. I started talking to Rocket. In a minute or two, she returned to the table and sat there silently while she sipped a Budweiser. Rocket seemed like a nice guy. He even knew of Elmore James. In about 5 minutes, I looked up and there behind the bar sat the 60 something woman in the orange shirt, the co-owner, I soon discovered. I guess she entered through a back door. I left the table and took a seat at the bar, introducing myself as I sat. I carefully explained who I was and what I did. "The mayor, Mr. Wiley," I said, "sent me here because Elmore James played here." That statement broke the ice. "Elmore James played here? I didn't know that. Who would-a thought? Wait ‘til I tell my husband. He'll love it." She introduced herself then. Even the barmaid became friendly. I got permission and started taking photographs.
How's that for cheap? If you guessed until David Duke started listening to Howlin' Wolf, you'd never guess the record I'm pointing to: Chuck Willis: "Mr. Blues" & "Savanna Lee" Chuck Willis died in 1958 soon after recording a song titled "What Am I Living For?" This jukebox was lost in a time warp! Alas, it contained no Elmore James, but here's a few of the many artists and songs on that jukebox:
Where that song came from, I'll never know. I put $2 in quarters in that jukebox and had a blues blast. I don't blame the barmaid for mistrusting me at first. Look at the situation from her point of view. 99.999% of the white people who unexpectedly stroll through the door of a juke joint pack a badge on their shirts or inside their wallets. The barmaid's reaction was a perfectly normal reaction, one I have caused at least 100 times in the last couple of years. If this white boy lived in Jackson, Mississippi, about 45 minutes down Interstate 55, about once a month on a Saturday afternoon you'd find me in the Studio 51. I'd have a couple of cool friends with me and a couple of rolls of quarters for that awesome jukebox. While the cold beer flowed and the music played, we'd enter a time warp–somewhere along about 1959.
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